I have recently been working with someone on a project that is very ajax intense. All calls are made to web services using ajax and the data logic is handled on the client side. The server side code just acts as the data access layer and does little else. How much javascript is too much?
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It really depends on your needs and the user’s expectations. My only suggestion is to think of the places you are doing AJAX when the user instead really expects to navigate a new page. Those are the cases where you are doing ‘too much’.
Remember, the user spends 99% percent of his time using other sites, not yours. Make sure your site does what he/she expects from the rest of the web as well as from using computers in general.
By the way, usability testing can be used to figure out ‘what the user really expects’ in any area. Your judgments as a designer are likely completely different than typical users’; see also Why You Only Need to Test with 5 Users.